Introduction and general definition
At first, it should not be forgotten that similar fabrication techniques are retrieved in cosmetics, food, pharmacy or fine chemical industries. This interdisciplinary approach is clearly a chance for innovation that directly benefits all consumers, keeping a fundamental design approach for all products. As design etymology emphasizes ‘de + signum’, project and representation (from Latin designare); then integrates design, allows creating an object that presents use value and functionality in everyday life. Definitely, design can add value to products and without a great product design, the consumer could not appreciate what the product had to offer. At least, the dumbest mistake is viewing design as something to do at the end of the process… As design adds a difference; it encompasses the ease of use and the product performance which is so essential for drug form. The design can help any product to say ‘buy me’ and for a prescribed drug, ‘use me’ that directly improves the compliance. During Pharmapack, one of the major fairs for the Pharmaceutical packaging, a reflection was presented that focused around cosmetic and pharmaceutical interconnections; this short overview allows one to make a point on what can be kept as the best contribution for the benefit of the two areas (1).
Cosmetic beauty market and definitions
The cosmetic global market presents a good health with more than 340 US $ Bn and after the Covid crisis breakdown (-8%) it presents a good recovery with +8% growth in 2021. The beauty market focuses on skincare (39%), hair (21%), make-up (17%), fragrance (13%) and hygiene (10%). A great progression of +5% per year by 2027 is seen for the luxury market and the beauty prestige segment should confirm its breakthrough with annual growth estimated at +8% over the same period (2). For the cosmetic consumers, foreign influences, and the era of all-connected are fundamental. Multiple exchanges are observed, including countries boosters that mix traditions and strong ethnic codes for a large diffusion of trends. The new consumer is an expert globe trotter, looking for products with subtle cultural references. There is an evolution of trends from the ‘made in’ to the ’life style’ in relation to a cultural way of life (more than a real geographical origin)… For several years, the cosmetic world should not forget the growing male sector with countries’ diversities, and new products… The large increase of new gender/genderless provides numerous proposals for make-up, masks, skincare and perfumes (3).
The cosmetic products are definitely a high-tech sector with numerous cosmetics, high-tech active products including ingredients with various effects: lightening, antioxidant, hydration, whitening, tanning, anti-wrinkle…New ideas of ‘green’ vectorization, for products made by plant-derived substances, designed with no solvents, proposing the full era of ‘active’ beauty. Formula adds sensoriality with lots of chameleons textures with changing structures where touching product induces its transformation, such a large world of active experiences for consumers.
With the huge development of urban megacities there is a growing demand for antipollution cosmetics and waterless products that present a high concentration of formulas with an environmental approach. Asia has also contributed of successful new cosmetics as cream alphabets: BB, CC that combine function as the first announcement of the arrival of hybrid cosmetics (6).
A cosmetic product on its general definition emphasizes that it is a product with NO specific properties for treating or preventing a disease. It is in contact with external parts of human body (or with teeth or a mucous membrane of oral cavity) with a view to cleaning, perfuming, protecting, changing their appearance, keeping them in good conditions or correcting body odors (7).
Cosmetic regulations follow one another with the 2007 REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals), then the 2008 CLP (Classification, Labelling Packaging) products and mixing and the 2009 CE No 1223/2009, European Parliament for cosmetics. At least, the 2013 CE 655 Regulation highlight the common criteria for all cosmetic products with a single regulation and a strengthened safety requirement, the concept of ‘responsible person’, the obligation to report serious adverse events and the rules on the use of nanomaterials.
Pharmaceutical market and definitions
A good Health is observed for the Global Pharmaceutical market with more than 1600 US bn,) a 8.2% growth compared to 2022 (+6.8% growth /2021) and a major part for US and Asia, and Europe. A good health for this global market expected to reach 2200 US $ Bn by 2028 that mainly targets oncology, immunology and anti-diabetics, then after cardiovascular diseases. News in oncology should induce a growth of 14% to 17% by 2028 and diabetes should become the largest domain of therapeutics with growth estimated at 3-6% over the next five years. This Pharmaceutical universe remains particular due to the drug form itself, very specific regarding its formal definition (following the Public Health Code: ‘administered to humans for medical diagnosis or to restore, correct or change functions’) with numerous specific rules regarding countries and whether it is a prescribed or an OTC (Over The Counter) Product. A large diversity in drug forms allows the best great adaptation to users (patients) whatever their ages or particularities (disabilities) (5).
Packaging world market
In 2021, the global packaging market reached 1 trillion US $, definitely a good health is observed for the sector + 8% growth over 2020/2021 and a large recovering after Covid crisis (now around 4% growth). Plastic remains the first material used for packaging, but paper growing in all sectors and definitely, in all universes, the surging wave of sustainability is becoming a tangible reality; it’s no longer an option. Looking to 2040 the 3R challenge (Reduce, Reuse, Recycle) has been expanded to 5R integrating two more ideas: Refuse and Repurpose (Figure 1) (4).
For the cosmetic world, the packaging showed an evolution from contains and protect to a real packaging partner integrated with multiple functionalities, thanks to design. It is quite similar in Pharmaceutical World, with a packaging helpful for patients that encompasses the uses, improving the ease of use and the compliance, such a huge challenge for any treatments (specifically chronicle ones).
Cosmetic packaging can be seen as smart for design and function (used on the move, adapted for intended uses), smart for eco-design with sustainability fully integrated with a pack that presents no impact on waste management, and a pack ‘safe-secure-inert’ tracked on its entire life, with ideas of interactive and informative packaging that provide both education and information on products. Cosmetic packaging presents a huge effect as brand recognition and sometimes technical shapes (especially for perfumes bottles) with always more pack are refillables. Similar purposes are found on Pharma world despite the high levels of regulation and the differences between primary pack in direct contact with the drug form and part of DMF and secondary pack that contain primary pack and give requested legal information on medicine. Secondary packs offer a real therapeutic education effect with the use of photos on drug pack showing the product in real size (Figure 2).
Various packaging adaptation examples
Combining function is one major statement on a large part of packaging which is also fully in relation with always more sustainability, as monomaterial, lighter and easily recyclable, as pouch combined with bottle (easier restitution with similar filling than bottles) or numerous tubes designed with less material (different shapes) or renewable resources (sugarcane, picea, papers). Cosmetics integrate largely this variety of tubes that can offer similar protection than multilamellar materials such as polyfoil® and new MMB polyfoil® (Figure 3).
Packaging can modify the physical form of product, as example the spray that dissociates the particles and widens the surface, offering new sensations to users; spray allows creating foam when it adds bubbles to product, with pump and/or gas. Cosmetic world largely adopts the spray packaging with a large diversity: spray larger, finest (mist) or longer are used for perfumes or make-up. In Pharmaworld, the spray is proposed for topical uses with design adaptation to patients (nasal wash for babies) and there is a large development of spray for nasal systemic treatments with a needed accuracy in dosage. Latest development proposed to create finest mist uses for topical nasal treatment and more efficiency for next generation of inhaled drugs. Sustainability is not forgotten in the spray world, with the use of sustainable materials, monomaterial, cardboard and cartridges that greatly limit the carbon footprint (Figure 4) (11,12,13).
Packaging allows changing the formulation as the examples of airless pump systems fully protective for formula; each use of airless system is similar as opening a single-dose and avoids the need of preservatives. They are largely used in the cosmetic world with numerous adaptations offering transparency of materials, refills, tips for application (adding skin sensation). Airless in Pharma is retrieved in numerous ranges of treatments (ophthalmic, nasal…) where they provide both safety for formulation all along the use and accuracy in dosage (17).
For liquid or semi liquids, cosmetic world have largely adopted droppers old fashion and no more often used in pharma; they appear as ‘must-have’ for cosmetic make-up with lots of adaptations as sustainable monomaterial keeping the idea of taking your drops as a prescription! May be soon there will be a coming back for droppers in the OCP Pharmaworld (Figure 5).
No more borders and interconnections between universes is seen with evolution of the nail sectors, hair make-up or lipstick… Perfumes adopt formulas without alcohol and new gestures for application, as well as gummies that arrive in OTC also as beauty care for skin and nail.
Digital world is fully integrated in everyday life with the internet, the AI, the metaverse that have been largely adopted by the alpha generation (Millennials’children, known as the most infused generation). The Digital changes the marketing for cosmetics with new testing tools or tutorials that renewal uses. In the Pharma universe, Apps provide information both on medicines and chronic diseases and can be associated with different tools (for blood pressure, weight). With a quick turnover lots of innovations are coming in this dynamic sector often awarded, as an example the digital screens proposed for clinical studies, CPhI Award in 2024. The 3D printing is used both in cosmetic (3D bioprinting, mascara tips) or manufacturing for drug forms; AI is a recognized partner for medicinal diagnostic. Digital doesn’t forget sustainability, as tags that relay information and avoid numerous paper labels (20, 21).
Finally, the packaging more than over, remains an unavoidable partner of all products with a huge impact of 82% for all products and more than 92% for beauty world, where the ‘wording’ associated to the product is important. Digital Apps that propose stories on products or tutorials on their use largely rely this idea of wording. And obviously, as the cosmetic world mainly proposes products desired, it is much easier to tell beautiful stories. At the opposite, the diseases are unwanted; it could be very often difficult to live with them, especially for chronic diseases. The treatment and some medicinal products can be hardly endured and difficult to take, so in that case, this idea of wording can be helpful to describe the disease, propose treatment as a solution and help to provide therapeutic education, both on disease and treatment. Serious games, virtual reality and tutorials can be seen as allies for a better management of treatments, conducting to improve the compliance, such a huge challenge (Figure 6).
Conclusions
Cosmetic and pharmaceutical worlds can be seen as complementary worlds with large interconnections that can contribute to innovations in both areas. Maintaining the beauty capital and restoring the Health go hand in hand and seem to be a fascinating story to follow. Definitely, with the digital world, the wording can be seen as a great tool for cosmetic world and a ‘must have’ for providing digital education and improving compliance for health world.
References and notes
- Gauthier P. ‘What can learn pharma from cosmetic industries? Beauty and Pharma constructives exchanges.’ Pharmapack Lighting talk, 23/01/2025, Paris.
- https://www.loreal-finance.com/en/annual-report-2024/beauty-market/
- Gauthier P. ‘Digital and healthcare a winning mix for users.‘ Chemistry Today, 2019, 37(4), 50-52.
- https://news.all4pack.com/3r-packaging-challenges-2025-in-sight-looking-to-the-future-in-2040/
- https://www.leem.org/le-marche-pharmaceutique
- Gauthier P. ‘Design, digital and beauty world, a winning mix’. H&PC Today, 2018, 13,4,
- https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/PDF/?uri=CELEX:32023R1490
- https://www.sempack-packaging.fr/en/
- https://www.neopac.com/en/tubes/applicators-dispensing
- https://www.pharmapackeurope.com/en/awards/awards/past-ceremonies.html
- Gauthier P. ‘5 advances and packaging trends in the beauty universe.’ https://www.packagingdigest.com/cosmetics/5-advances-and-packaging-trends-beauty-universe
- Gauthier P. ‘Perfume packaging doessomuch more thesedays.’ https://www.packagingdigest.com/personal-care-packaging/perfume-packaging-does-so-much-more-these-days
- Gauthier P. ‘Spray and foam, overview of products and use’ 7th Aerosol and Dispensing Forum, ADF-PCD Oriex, Paris, 6-8th February 2013. ‘Spray and foam, overview of products and use.’ Aerosol Europe, 2013, vol 21, N°6, 12-17.
- https://www.pumpart.com/
- https://aptar.com/products/pharmaceutical/apf-futurity-nasal-spray-recyclable/
- http://news.aptar.com/solutions/a-new-perfuming-gesture-designed-by-aptar-beauty-home-for-jadore-touche-de-parfum-from-dior/
- Gauthier P. ‘Airless, when less is more, overview of products.’ 8th Aerosol and Dispensing Forum, ADF-PCD Oriex, Paris, 5-6th feb 2014. Aerosol Europe, 2014, 22, 5, 23-27. ‘Airless vers des niveaux de qualité plus élevé.’ Doses, 2015, N°59, 62-71.
- Gauthier P. Packaging full partner in beauty world, dream or reality?, HPC Today, vol. 19(3); 2024 https://tks-hpc.h5mag.com/hpc_today_3_2024/packaging_-_packaging_full_partner_in_beauty_world_dream_or_reality
- https://virospack.com/
- Gauthier P. ‘Less is better for packaging that enables much more’, 2021, HPC Today, 15 (5), 42-44. Gauthier P. ‘Cosmetic world a high tech universe’, 2020, H&PC Today, 15 (1), 51-53.
- Gauthier P. ‘Electronic Health and the role of software in drug dispensing and administration. ‘https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.4155/tde-2016-0053
